Hay Group:
The following is not one hundred percent complete, however it is a good start. Please feel free to ask any questions you may have. There are two videos on you tube, under the heading, power ratio over one!

PS: Here are the links to the videos: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HHQzWyLTBI  and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzUcmYiHF5E
David Middleton’s Power Ratio Over One
Proof of concept apparatus
Material List:
1.   Base; the base is a Ύ” thick x 8”wide  x 28” long, pine board
1-B. Base support – scrap Ύ” boards
2.   Axle support; 4 wood block supports measuring, 5” long, 1” wide, 1.5”high
3.   Axle 1/8” x 30”
3-A- 4” axle overhang
4.   Teeter engaging lever (1) hard wood, 5.5” long, 1” wide, 1/8” thick
5.   Fender washers (10) 1/8” x 1”
6.   Hex Nuts (40) 6x32
7.   Washers  (20) 1/8” x 13/16”
8.   Axle alignment eye hook, (4) #
9.   Plastic tubing Ό” x 12”
10.   Screws (4) 1.25”
11.   NdFeB grade N40,Neodymium magnets, (6) ½” thick 4” long 1” wide(magnet4less.com)
12.   Micro switch (4) Cherry – E51
13.   Bolt, (6) 1/8” x 3”
14.   Copper nails (2) 1.5”
15.   Driver coil, single strand,  magnet wire 15 gauge, inside opening  4-5/8” long, 1-5/8” wide, Ύ” thick, weight
15a, Ό” thick lauan
16.   Output coil, double strand, 29 gauge, Ύ” thick, opening same as driver coil, approx. 3+-LBS
17.   Output coil, double strand, 29 gauge, Ύ” thick, opening same as driver coil, approx. 4+-LBS
18.   Switch base, Ύ” x 8” x 16”
19.   Teeter board, hard wood, 5.5” long, Ύ” wide, Ό” thick
20.   Teeter ell bracket support, ½” wide, 1-1/2 x 1-1/2” cut to fit
21.   Switch support block, Ύ” thick, 1-1/2” long, 1” tall
22.   Cell holder
23.   Power in terminals, Copper nails (2) 1-1/2”
24.   Output attachment terminals, copper nails (2) 1-1/4”
Additionally: Scrap Ύ” boards

MPR>1 Assembly
By far the most challenging part of this reproduction will be spinning the coils. Several internet sites explain the process quite well. A few pointers starting with the driver coil; I used 15-gauge wire. I suspect that using a heaver gauge wire with fewer turns would have a beneficial effect. The windings have to be as tight as possible. As shown in the photos, the coil is wrapped in tape in an attempt to keep the coil as tight as possible. Still, when the device is running if I push down on the coils I can clearly hear the speed pick up. The placement of the axle supports (#2) and the magnets (#11) depends on the size of the coils, so the coils will have to be made first. That said:
1.   On the base (#1), measure and draw a line lengthwise down the center from end to end.
2.   On each axle support (#2), measure for the center, draw a line across the center and down each side. The purpose being, the lines on the axle support (#2)will line up with the center  line on the base (#1) to keep the axle (#3) straight, and the line on top of the axle support block (#2) will be where the eye hook (#8) is screwed in.
3.   Screw in the eyehook (#8) into the axle support blocks (#2) on the top centerline. Leave about (1/8”) of the shaft exposed.
4.   Place one of the axle support blocks (#2) at one end of the base (#1) aligning the centerlines. From under the base, screw one stainless steel screw (#10) up into the axle support, anywhere along the length.
5.   Cut a piece of lauan slightly larger than the driver coil (#15). Use hot glue to glue the driver coil (#15) to the lauan. Place the glued down driver coil (#15) against the axle support (#2) that was secured in place in step (4).
6.   Screw a nut (#13) onto the axle (#3) approximately 4-1/4” from one end of the axle (#3). Slide two fender washers (#5) on to the axle (#3) followed by another nut (#13). Leave approximately 4-1/2” between the nuts (#13). Leave approximately 3” of the axle (#3) overhanging the first axle support (#2) to (Later) attach the Teeter engaging lever (#4).
7.   Place the second axle support block (#2) a distance of a Ό” away from the driver coil (#15) and use a stainless steel screw (#10) to secure the second axle support from underneath, be sure to align the center lines.
8.   Cut a piece of tubing (#9) approximately 3-1/4” long. Slide the tubing (#9) from the long end of the axle (#3) through the eyehook (#8).
9.   From the long end of the axle (#3) screw a nut (#13)followed by two fender washers (#5)and another nut (#13) approximately 13” from the shorter end.
10.   Place the first output coil (#16) on the base (#1) approximately Ό” from the second axle support (#2).
11.   Slide the third axle supports (#2) eye          hook (#8) down the axle (#3) to approximately Ό” away from the output coil (#16).
12.   Cut a piece of tubing (#9) approximately 3-1/4” long. Slide the tubing (#9) from the long end of the axle (#3) through the eyehook (#8).
13.   From the long end of the axle (#3) screw a nut (#13)followed by two fender washers (#5)and another nut (#13)
14.   Place the second output coil (#17) on the base (#1) approximately Ό” from the third axle support (#2).
15.   Slide the forth axle supports (#2) eye          hook (#8) down the axle (#3) to approximately Ό” away from the output coil (#16).
16.   Place the second axle support block (#2) a distance of a Ό” away from the driver coil (#15) and use a stainless steel screw (#10) to secure the second axle support from underneath, be sure to align the center lines.
17.   Cut a piece of tubing (#9) approximately 3-1/4” long. Slide the tubing (#9) from the long end of the axle (#3) through the eyehook (#8).
18.   Installing the permanent magnets (#11) over the  coils (#15,16,17)
Space the hex nuts (#13) and fender washers (#5) at least 4-1/2” apart. Tape the fender washers (#5) to the axle(#3).  Place one of the magnets (#11) between the fender washers (#5). The axle (#3) should be in the middle of the magnet (#11). If you value your digests wear leather work gloves to set the second magnet (#11) in line with the first. Use 4 nuts (#13) as spacers, two above and two below the axle (#3). Un tape the fender washers (#5). Adjust the magnets (#11) to the centers of the coils (#15, 16, and 17). Do the driver coil (#15) first, then the other two. Snug the hex nuts (#13) up with your fingers. This is where it gets tricky! I use a 3” crescent wrench, but an open-end wrench will do. The trick is to approach the nuts (#13) longitudinally along the axle (#3). If you do not, the magnet will snatch the wrench, and it is quite the struggle to get it off! Whichever pole is facing you, make sure the others match. Use a compass.
19.   On the 3” axle (#3) overhang, Install the teeter engaging lever (#4) with a nut (#13) and fender washer (#5) on each side, tighten.

THE SWITCHES

1.   The switch (#12) base (#18) has two slots. From an edge, one slot is 1” from the edge and the second is 4-1/4” from the edge. A saw blade width is acceptable. The slots should extend about 5” from the back end of the base (#18)
2.   Set the switch support block(#21) on a flat surface. Set a switch (#12) in front of the Support block (#21). Using a finish nail or equivalent push the nail through each aperture to make a divot.
3.   Drill 1/8” holes through the switch support blocks (#21) using the divots as a guide.
4.   Drill a 1/8” hole down centered through the top of the switch support block
5.   Insert two bolts (#13) through the two apertures on the front of the switches (#12), followed by hex nuts (#6).
6.   Screw on another hex nut (#6) on each bolt (#13) approximately Ό” from the first hex nut (#6)
7.   Slide the second switch onto the bolt (#13) up to hex nut (#6), followed by the switch support block (#21), followed by another nut (#6)
8.   Insert a bolt (#13) through the slot, up from the bottom of the switch base (#18) followed by a washer (#7) and another hex nut (#6).
9.   Screw yet another hex nut (#6) on the upright bolt (#13) approx 1” from the preceding hex nut (#6)followed by a washer (#7)
10.   Slide the switch support block (#21) down onto the upright bolt (#13) followed by a washer (#7) and another nut
11.   Position the switches (#12-A and 12AA) levers, so that line up, this should automatically align switch levers (#12-B and 12-BB)
12.   The distance between switch levers (#12-A and 12-B) is approximately 1”.
13.   Half way between the switch levers is the teeter  support and board (#19 and 20)
14.   The teeter support (#20) is a standard ell bracket. Starting in the center at each end, a grove is cut longitudinally, wide enough to accompany an 1/8” bolt (#13). One end is secured to the switch base (# 18) with a bolt and nut assembly through the middle slot. In the vertical portion of the ell bracket (#20) a bolt (#13), nut (# 6) and washers (#7)are fastened.
15.   The teeterboard (#19) is slid onto the horizontal bolt and loosely secured with a washer and nut assembly.
The wiring
1.   Switch (#12-A) common terminal to terminal (#23-A)
2.   Switch (#12-A) NO (center) terminal to terminal (#22-A)
3.   Switch (#12-AA) common terminal to terminal (#23-B)
4.   Switch (#12-AA) NO (center) terminal to terminal (#22-B)
5.   Switch (#12-B) common terminal to terminal (#22-A)
6.   Switch (#12-B) NO (center) terminal to terminal (#23-B)
7.   Switch (#12-BB) common terminal to terminal (#23-A)
8.   Switch (#12-BB) NO (center) terminal to terminal (#22-B)

Power in
1.   Positive to terminal (#22-A)
2.   Negative to terminal (#22-B)

Adjustments
The coils:
1.   At the 3” axle, overhang end, Position the driver coil under the permanent magnets. Insert a second and third piece of lauan under the coil. Looking down on the coil, rock the magnets back and forth make sure the coils center is centered on the magnets, and there is no danger of the magnets hitting the coil. Drill down through the lauan into the base, in front of and behind the magnets. Insert a nail or screw through the holes.
2.    Output coils: Position the output coil under the permanent magnets. Place  a scrap Ύ” board under the coils l. Looking down on the coil  Rock the magnets back and forth make sure the coils center is centered on the magnets, and there is no danger of the magnets hitting the coil. No need to anchor the output coils down.
The switches
There are several options for the switch adjustments. My first choice was to use a diode; however, they had a noticeable negative effect. My second choice was to use two switches and two power sources (batteries), however, the possibility of getting a bleed over between the batteries was a possibility.  Using four switches and one battery, the possibility of incorrect readings is greatly reduced.
1.   With the teeter board holding down switch levers 12-B and 12-BB:
a.   Using a pencil with an eraser; push down the lever of switch 12-B. If you hear a click, an adjustment is needed, by adjusting the height of the teeterboard or the switch itself.
b.   With the teeterboard, depressing switch levers 12-B and BB, switches 12-A and AA should both click when depressed.